early women photographers

Genevieve Elizabeth Disdéri, Plougastel Cemetery (1856)

Bertha Wehnert Beckmann

Hilda Sjolin portrait of Ida Hultgren (1863)

Thora Hallager, portrait of Hans Christian Andersen (1869)

Mary Steen, Queen Victoria and Princess Beatrice, 1895

Clementina Hawarden, Portrait of Clementina Maud, 1893

Wikipedia has a good page of early women photographers

The Harper's Dinasty

The rise of American editorial and advertising design begins with the Harpers brothers. They started their publishing business J. & J. Harper in 1817. The company changed its name to "Harper & Brothers" in 1833.

From Harper's New Monthly Magazine, March, 1858

Harper & Brothers began publishing Harper's New Monthly Magazine in 1850. The brothers also published Harper's Weekly (starting in 1857),

First Harper's Bazar's Cover, 1867

Harper's Bazar (starting in 1867). Harper's New Monthly Magazine ultimately became Harper's Magazine, which is now published by the Harper's Magazine Foundation.

Selwyn Image, The Century Guild Hobby Horse (1886), how to represent an ideal integrated graphic design

Artist Selwyn Image, writer Herbert Horne, and other founding members of the Century Guild used the Hobby Horse to represent an idea of integrated graphic design and the fine arts.

Selwyn cover design for The Tragic Mary, 1890.

1- The Hobby Horse was a quarterly Victorian periodical published by the Century Guild of Artists in England. The magazine ran from 1884–1894 and spanned a total of seven volumes and 28 issues. It featured various articles on arts and design and other subjects, including literature and social issues.

2- The Century Guild Hobby Horse was one of the last versions of the literature and art journal, a genre born with the Pre-Raphaelite Germ in 1850.

3- Unlike The Yellow Book and The Savoy, The Hobby Horse was not solely committed to elite aestheticism.

here's a link to a great text about the Hobby Horse by Rebecca Mitchell

the typewriter (self-printing 101)

commercially viable typewriters were patented in the period just after the civil war. the challenge of mass-producing precise movable parts was met by refinements of earlier industrial methods. the typewriter helped standardize communications and behaviors.

women entered the workforce as clerks and typists, their roles partly defined by these mechanized processes and protocols.

(here a cool video of the history of typewriters)

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as a side note: here's my Olivetti graphica (1958), with its Cassandre typeface. I wrote my first papers here. the best so-called "proportional typewriter" (it's all about spacing between fonts) and that carbon ribbon's indelibly superb mark!

natural science gets illustrated

flowers (and its different parts)

fruits,

vegetables,

in natural science illustration the goal is to render the image as didactic as possible, clear, faithful, but also beautiful.

insects,

take a look at this amazing biodiversity heritage library of images!

after Morris, movements took up the challenge of social design

Morris' design is far removed from Victorian aesthetics

what do we see here? honesty = beauty!

(here a good video about William Morris)

nouveau (tatoo artists)

fabio maduro, buenos aires

chinese canadian artist nomi chi

unknown artist

based on a Mucha design, Cesar from Ithaca, NY

 

the nouveau touch of Eugène Grasset

Eugène Grasset (1845-1917) was an admirer of Egyptian motifs and Japanese art, both of which influenced his creative designs. Grasset worked as a painter and sculptor in Lausanne snf moved to Paris in 1871 where he designed furniture fabrics and tapestries as well as ceramics and jewelry. His fine art decorative pieces were crafted from ivory, gold and other precious materials in unique combinations and his creations are considered a cornerstone of Art Nouveau motifs and patterns. He turned to graphic design in 1877, producing income-generating products such as postcards and eventually postage stamps for both France and Switzerland. However, it was poster art that quickly became his forté.(Above, Grasset's exhibition poster for Salon des Cent, 1894).

Grasset's self portrait, 1866

l'eventail, 1890

Privat Livemont (how typography layout expresses a moment in culture)

Rajah Coffee Poster, 1899

Privat Livemont, who worked in Paris and then in Brussels, is the quintessential nouveau artist. His style borrows slightly from Mucha's idealized women, their tendrilous hair and lavish ornament." His major innovation consists of the white contour he added to his figures. 

 

biscuits de chocolat, 1901

 

as

le bec liais, 1904